Based on the preferences of top luxury buyers from around the world, the Autumn/Winter 2020 season focused on a refresh of the classics: modern fringe, dramatic volume, layered outerwear, versatile capes, tonal dressing — often in real and faux head-to-toe leather — and the endurance of tailored power-suiting. Following the announcement of Raf Simons joining Prada as co-creative director, buyers recognised the magnitude of Miuccia Prada’s final solo collection — and underscored the milestone in their picks.
While discussion of social issues felt overshadowed by coronavirus concerns, which quickly escalated during Milan Fashion Week and peaked in Paris, retailers pledged a commitment to “luxury” sustainability through their buys, via techniques, fabrications and sourcing, as well as a sharp edit of investment pieces for clients to keep and rewear. For this reason, New York-based The Row regularly topped the international buyers’ lists from Hong Kong, to Dubai, London and Dallas. Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Valentino and Gabriela Hearst also resonated with retailers around the globe.
Below, 10 luxury buyers discuss their top collections, pieces and trends from the AW20 season and what speaks to their region and discerning clientele.
Lydia King, fashion and buying director, Harrods
Trends: Supersized bell sleeves, fringe, pastels, glam warrior, sexy-cool.
Collections: Fendi, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Chanel, Paco Rabanne, Thom Browne, Jil Sander, Simone Rocha, Area, Moncler Genius.
King’s take: “The standout shows for the season came from Fendi, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Chanel and Paco Rabanne. The Moncler Genius exhibition exceeded previous showcases. We are launching more new brands than ever before, including Thom Browne, Jil Sander, Simone Rocha and Area. We are actively seeing growth in brands with a strong sustainability focus and are adding more to our portfolio, including Mother of Pearl, Ganni, Le Jean and Peony, which use their sustainability credentials as a real point of difference. Within our business, we are focusing on ever-improving our supply chain traceability and training our buyers on sustainable luxury. Fringing was key in every city and expertly illustrated by Bottega Veneta, Prada and Gabriela Hearst. Supersized bell sleeves, as seen at Loewe and Victoria Beckham, were a key feature. Jil Sander and Maison Margiela showed a clear focus on pastels, particularly ice blue and buttermilk yellow. Paco Rabanne and Area presented the ‘glam warrior’ trend, complete with headdresses. Khaite, Nanushka and Valentino best showcased sexy-cool.”
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